Trailer Brake Controller install

[TampaHoosier]

Ahh gotcha. I don't really care if it's mopar or not, I just like the idea of not having the box hanging below the dash - I'm 6'8" and my knees and legs like to be there instead I couldn't find the redarc, but when I searched for it I found the Curt which appears to be the same style / solution...

yeah agreed. I'm 6'2" and even I find my knees resting on the sides. The mopar or Curt would be your best bet then. The curt (linked below) has an option to drill a tiny hole that you would then pass a single small wire through. You then stick the knob over that hole. Pretty straight forward. It's basically the same cost as the Mopar and as you said requires a lot less dismantling of the dash. You will only need to tuck the control unit up under the steering column somewhere. Some zip ties should do the trick!

Side note: The Curt lights will light up every time you brake, regardless of a trailer hooked up or not. The Mopar one will not light up (other than at vehicle start up) if nothing is connected. If you go on amazon and search for Curt 51170 controller you will see some mixed reviews on the lights, and the wiring can apparently be a bit of a pain. I'm going to roll with the Mopar one. I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable taking apart the dash and it'll also mean I can do the Xpel PPF on individual dash components a bit easier with them apart. The benefit is because the Mopar replaces the cig lighter it's tucked out of the way. Who needs a Cig Lighter when you have USBs everywhere? I haven't used it in a car in a loooong time. I have had the Mopar one in my Gladiator for over a year and not once have I needed the cig lighter.

https://www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=C51170&pc2=C51446&VehicleID=202284983&HHYear=2022&HHMake=Jeep&HHModel=Grand+Cherokee

 

[RichSNJ]

yeah agreed. I'm 6'2" and even I find my knees resting on the sides. The mopar or Curt would be your best bet then. The curt (linked below) has an option to drill a tiny hole that you would then pass a single small wire through. You then stick the knob over that hole. Pretty straight forward. It's basically the same cost as the Mopar and as you said requires a lot less dismantling of the dash. You will only need to tuck the control unit up under the steering column somewhere. Some zip ties should do the trick!

Side note: The Curt lights will light up every time you brake, regardless of a trailer hooked up or not. The Mopar one will not light up (other than at vehicle start up) if nothing is connected. If you go on amazon and search for Curt 51170 controller you will see some mixed reviews on the lights, and the wiring can apparently be a bit of a pain. I'm going to roll with the Mopar one. I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable taking apart the dash and it'll also mean I can do the Xpel PPF on individual dash components a bit easier with them apart. The benefit is because the Mopar replaces the cig lighter it's tucked out of the way. Who needs a Cig Lighter when you have USBs everywhere? I haven't used it in a car in a loooong time. I have had the Mopar one in my Gladiator for over a year and not once have I needed the cig lighter.

https://www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=C51170&pc2=C51446&VehicleID=202284983&HHYear=2022&HHMake=Jeep&HHModel=Grand+Cherokee

I don't love the lights on the Curt and will try harder to find the redarc, however I suppose that if I had to go with the Curt I could just unplug the cable unless I had a trailer connected, so that would work, because it lighting up all the time would bug the crap out of me.

Taking the dash apart for the mopar wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, but I'd still rather keep the cigarette lighter even though you're right and I may never use it, but also, the mopar wasn't really designed for the GCL and I think that the shape of the compartment might hinder it's use while I'm driving if I actually had to use it, especially since if we're driving a ways that compartment would be closed and a sandwich bag or chips would be on top of it

 

[RichSNJ]

yeah agreed. I'm 6'2" and even I find my knees resting on the sides. The mopar or Curt would be your best bet then. The curt (linked below) has an option to drill a tiny hole that you would then pass a single small wire through. You then stick the knob over that hole. Pretty straight forward. It's basically the same cost as the Mopar and as you said requires a lot less dismantling of the dash. You will only need to tuck the control unit up under the steering column somewhere. Some zip ties should do the trick!

Side note: The Curt lights will light up every time you brake, regardless of a trailer hooked up or not. The Mopar one will not light up (other than at vehicle start up) if nothing is connected. If you go on amazon and search for Curt 51170 controller you will see some mixed reviews on the lights, and the wiring can apparently be a bit of a pain. I'm going to roll with the Mopar one. I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable taking apart the dash and it'll also mean I can do the Xpel PPF on individual dash components a bit easier with them apart. The benefit is because the Mopar replaces the cig lighter it's tucked out of the way. Who needs a Cig Lighter when you have USBs everywhere? I haven't used it in a car in a loooong time. I have had the Mopar one in my Gladiator for over a year and not once have I needed the cig lighter.

https://www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=C51170&pc2=C51446&VehicleID=202284983&HHYear=2022&HHMake=Jeep&HHModel=Grand+Cherokee

Great intro video on that site you posted, I like the Curt, will probably go with that...

 

[Sarge]

The Mopar one will not light up (other than at vehicle start up) if nothing is connected. If you go on amazon and search for Curt 51170 controller you will see some mixed reviews on the lights, and the wiring can apparently be a bit of a pain. I'm going to roll with the Mopar one. I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable taking apart the dash and it'll also mean I can do the Xpel PPF on individual dash components a bit easier with them apart.

I'm curious how hard it is to take these dash panels apart? I was leaning toward getting another Tekonsha P3, but can't see a good place for it (in the past I've cut out the knee panel in front of the driver so it's just barely sticking through enough to operate it), but the space is pretty tight for me in there (6'3") so the mopar one might make more sense if I can find someplace for it (don't want to put it where the 12v socket is). I haven't seen any photos or instructions for disassembling any of the dash parts from anyone yet.

 

[fbotti]

Does anybody know if the L's with the towing package have the connector for a Brake controller, and if so where it is located?

Thanks in advance,

I have the WL summit reserve with the tow package. I had some of the same questions since I was taking delivery of a new RV. The dealer was helpful by suggesting a blue tooth enabled plug in brake controller you simply plug in to the rear 6 pin receptacle. You control it with your iPhone. I used it to tow my RV and it worked well. If you are interested I have one for sale at a good price. No drilling. No wires to hood up. Just plug in.

 

[wowsa]

Here is a picture of the one I had installed at my dealer.
Part number on my invoice from them is listed as 82215834AB
Cost was $360 for the part and $120 for install.

 

[Sarge]

Did they say if they could have installed it further to the right, and kept the 12V socket? Seems like you could just drill one little hole and not lose the 12v socket, unless there's something behind it preventing that?

 

[wowsa]

Did they say if they could have installed it further to the right, and kept the 12V socket? Seems like you could just drill one little hole and not lose the 12v socket, unless there's something behind it preventing that?

I didn’t ask and they just said that is where it was spec’d to be installed.

I don’t use the 12v outlet so I figured no issue.

 

[RichSNJ]

View attachment 1858

Here is a picture of the one I had installed at my dealer.
Part number on my invoice from them is listed as 82215834AB
Cost was $360 for the part and $120 for install.

What's in your USB A Port?

 

[saleen032]

Did they say if they could have installed it further to the right, and kept the 12V socket? Seems like you could just drill one little hole and not lose the 12v socket, unless there's something behind it preventing that?

The knob is designed to install in the 12v outlet. The hole is has a keyed notch to keep the knob/outlet from rotating,

What's in your USB A Port?

It looks like a thumb drive so he can play mp3 files on the entertainment system

 

[fbotti]

I have the WL summit reserve with the tow package. I had some of the same questions since I was taking delivery of a new RV. The dealer was helpful by suggesting a blue tooth enabled plug in brake controller you simply plug in to the rear 6 pin receptacle. You control it with your iPhone. I used it to tow my RV and it worked well. If you are interested I have one for sale at a good price. No drilling. No wires to hood up. Just plug in.

 

[wowsa]

What's in your USB A Port?

It is a little Logitech usb drive with mp3s.

 

[Tallboyslim]

A couple of questions on the 82215834AB.
1) How big is this after inserted in the cigarette lighter? Does it hinder putting in a phone for the wireless charging ?
2) How does this get wired in to the harness in the Jeep? Is the cig lighter also hooked in somehow to the wiring ?
3) How has it been working so far?

I have a GCL SR V6, and used the Echo Bluetooth controller. It worked fine for a while and now I have some issues. The issues may or may not be with the brake controller itself, but it has sowed a doubt in my mind about the reliability of the "wireless" option. I am looking at a reasonable clean option for a brake controller that is "wired" in. This one (82215834AB) seems to be exactly what I am looking for if I understand it right.
Any feedback on alternatives also appreciated. Thanks!

 

[saleen032]

A couple of questions on the 82215834AB.
1) How big is this after inserted in the cigarette lighter? Does it hinder putting in a phone for the wireless charging ?
2) How does this get wired in to the harness in the Jeep? Is the cig lighter also hooked in somehow to the wiring ?
3) How has it been working so far?

I have a GCL SR V6, and used the Echo Bluetooth controller. It worked fine for a while and now I have some issues. The issues may or may not be with the brake controller itself, but it has sowed a doubt in my mind about the reliability of the "wireless" option. I am looking at a reasonable clean option for a brake controller that is "wired" in. This one (82215834AB) seems to be exactly what I am looking for if I understand it right.
Any feedback on alternatives also appreciated. Thanks!

If your truck has the towing package, then the wiring is just plug and play. The unit installs behind the drivers knee panel, and the wire connects at the drivers floorboard kickpanel . I have the RedArc controller which is similar in design ,but the knob is much smaller.
I only towed once with the L. a 16" cargo trailer. The controller worked fine.

 

[Sarge]

Did you do this install yourself? I like this setup, just wondering how difficult it is. They're going to have to tear my whole center console apart to install a new screen/stereo unit and fix my disconnected ducting to the rear seats, so it's probably a good time to have this installed.

Is that the RedArc Elite model? Do you have to run wires a ways further with a special harness? Also, does it light up different colors to indicate the trailer braking is connected and active/functioning?

 

[saleen032]

Did you do this install yourself? I like this setup, just wondering how difficult it is. They're going to have to tear my whole center console apart to install a new screen/stereo unit and fix my disconnected ducting to the rear seats, so it's probably a good time to have this installed.

Is that the RedArc Elite model? Do you have to run wires a ways further with a special harness? Also, does it light up different colors to indicate the trailer braking is connected and active/functioning?

Yes, I did do this myself. I did take alot of the dash/console apart to install it, but learned that some of the panels I took off didnt need to be removed for the install . I had to take the cubby out to drill the hole, and the drivers knee panel to mount the control box. I took the console drivers side panel off just to make running the wire easier. The panels all just clip/snap in place so they come off/go back on very easily...The only advantage of the Mopar one over tis one, is that the Mopar one uses the 12v outlet hole for mounting, but you lose the 12v outlet....

 

[saleen032]

Is that the RedArc Elite model? Do you have to run wires a ways further with a special harness? Also, does it light up different colors to indicate the trailer braking is connected and active/functioning?

I got the Liberty model. Ididnt need some of the features of the Elite, as this is a back-up tow vehicle. The knob does light up different colors to indicate status......I bought the harness when I bought the controller. everything just plugs and plays. The wire had to be run to the drivers footwell kickpanel. My L had the towing package which has all the wiring pre-installed, so I just plugged into the connector at the kickpanel...

 

[wowsa]

No experience using mine yet, so no feedback there.

Install was by the dealer so I can’t answer any of those questions.

I don’t have the wireless charger so can’t answer any of those questions either.

 

[Sarge]

I got the Liberty model. Ididnt need some of the features of the Elite, as this is a back-up tow vehicle. The knob does light up different colors to indicate status......I bought the harness when I bought the controller. everything just plugs and plays. The wire had to be run to the drivers footwell kickpanel. My L had the towing package which has all the wiring pre-installed, so I just plugged into the connector at the kickpanel...

Great, good to know. I'll probably have the dealer install it when they tear apart my dash and center tunnel to fix the HVAC and Uconnect system. I ordered the Elite, the Jeep harness, and the little holder part for the button just to make it obvious what it's for when others are driving or when I sell it. I still like my old Tekonsha P3 for the ability to manually engage the trailer brakes to stop sway, but this is just so much slicker on the install and there's not much space anywhere else to mount it (the backplate switch pictured below, different vehicle obviously).

 

[saleen032]

Great, good to know. I'll probably have the dealer install it when they tear apart my dash and center tunnel to fix the HVAC and Uconnect system. I ordered the Elite, the Jeep harness, and the little holder part for the button just to make it obvious what it's for when others are driving or when I sell it. I still like my old Tekonsha P3 for the ability to manually engage the trailer brakes to stop sway, but this is just so much slicker on the install and there's not much space anywhere else to mount it (the backplate switch pictured below, different vehicle obviously).

I had the Tekonsha P3 too, but like you said, I couldnt find any place to put it where it looked factory, or at least not like a last second add-on.....You can maually engage the brakes with the RedArc too. Just push the knob in to engage the brakes.....