WL Jeep Forum

Welcome to WLJeepforum.com! Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Does anyone know anyone to reach out to at Jeep Corporate?

Sarge

Well-known member
My local dealer has offered to buy my '21 GCL Overland back from me for what I paid for it (MSRP) if I order a new one, but this would not be a 'lemon law' buyback. I would like to get some kind of agreement from Jeep that they will put the replacement vehicle order into production at the earliest possible time (as they do with Lemon Law buybacks) instead of going to the end of the line, and also get some price concessions to offset the significant price increases.

If this works, Jeep avoids a branded title on my car, saves on all the legal fees, and doesn't have to pay for all my accessories (per lemon law) either, which would save them ~$30k, give or take, so it is in their interest to make some accommodations and assurances.

This is not something that is handled through the dealer's rep, and the rep has been no help. That leaves me 'doing my own research' (we all know how that goes) to try and find a point of contact at Jeep/Stellantis to engage with. The 'Jeep Cares' people are no help either. Otherwise I'm left with a shotgun approach to the top execs and PR people, none of whom are tasked with nor probably care about any of this.

Any ideas? (PM me if you don't want to name names here; I will keep it confidential if preferred)
 

elsabito

Well-known member
There was a posted message like 3 months ago of contact people at the leadership of Jeep.
I cannot find it though
 

Sarge

Well-known member
I thought I remembered that. I cannot find much of anything, even old posts I made, with the search function on this site. If anyone knows, please post.
 

hcl

Well-known member
So the rep is providing the buyback payment, and you're just looking for a reduced period for the new delivery? Now that there's slightly more produciton, maybe there's existing inventory. They'd probably have a shipping charge and, as you probably know, the price has gone up. But maybe your dealer can arrange for the delivery of an existing model with the features you want on the lot somewhere.
 

Sarge

Well-known member
No. This is not a lemon buyback. My local dealer is offering me what I paid for the car (sans accessories, etc) if I order a new one (purchased 12/5/21, 4k miles now). But Jeep raised the prices, I'm also losing $2k in paint protection film (critical where I live due to rocks), and I'd like Jeep to give the dealer some 'trunk money' on the new order, essentially, along with agreeing to no content deletions on the new order. I'd also be willing to wait for Midnight Sky, and maybe the new I6TT motor, depending on how soon that's available (launching it at NYAS). Jeep doesn't have to buy it back (dealer is just essentially taking it on trade), which will save Jeep all the lemon law legal fees, sales tax and registration, and the depreciation from a branded title, and get a bit of good will from me in return. And they probably save around $30k in the process, even with giving me some discounts (around $4k). It's a win-win-win for me, the dealer, and Jeep... but the local rep is no help (says I just have to process it like a lemon via the out of state dealer I bought it from), b/c the rep couldn't care less about any of this (not my job syndrome). Also, in my state, second owners can't file for the lemon law, so Jeep permanently avoids a lemon suit on this car if they help out, making them the biggest winner.

So, I'd like to see if anyone at Jeep will do all of us a favor before I lawyer up. It's a rounding error to them, so maybe they just don't care, but it's worth asking if I can get to the right person.
 

Sarge

Well-known member
This is my current list of problems:

  1. Uconnect - Past issues Dec-Feb, partly resolved mid February with new Uconnect ECU/CPU:
    1. Screen goes black, can be ‘tricked’ into turning on by rotating position of headlight switch.
    2. Screen flashing constantly, cannot adjust anything within Uconnect before it ‘resets’.
    3. Key FOB not programming to driver profile or seat/mirror memory settings
    4. XM not available for three months. Came back on with new Uconnect CPU/ECU controller, but now no channels available due to no link to ostensibly unused ‘trial’ subscription.
    5. Wired Carplay only occasionally operable for first three months. Could only control via phone, usually would not connect.
    6. Wireless CarPlay worked first two days intermittently (dropped at random), then not at all.
    7. Bluetooth Audio not available
    8. Navigation completely unavailable “cannot load maps”
    9. Volume control inop; can turn volume knob and numbers go up and down, but no change in volume. Sometimes no sound, sometimes fixed volume, sometimes the unit would reduce the volume on its own (ie 30 to 20), and then do it again and again if you raised the volume.
    10. FM radio unavailable
    11. Internet connection to home wifi inop
    12. System won’t save driver profile settings
    13. Locks sometimes only open driver door, vs all doors
    14. Essentially anything controlled solely by Uconnect impossible to control due to constant system resetting (screen flashing every 5 seconds, booting you out of whatever you were doing).


  1. Uconnect AFTER replacement of CPU/ECU (not screen, just the processors that drive it)
    1. Wireless CarPlay still inop
    2. Wired CarPlay works on some phones, unreliable/unavailable on others (phones same generation iPhone 12, same iOS version)
    3. BT audio won’t connect
    4. Won’t connect to home wifi for OTA updates, app updates
    5. Won’t program key FOBs to driver profile and seat settings
    6. Cannot connect to wireless apps (ie to start car remotely) via iPhone


  1. HVAC
    1. Front center console vent to 2nd row console vents not assembled/disconnected from the factory (dealer reconnected)
    2. 2nd row footwell vent under passenger seat laying loose, disconnected (dealer reconnected)
    3. Front center console cubby is STILL 165˚F inside, cupholders 135˚F, phone charger 117˚F even after repairing ducts to center console 2nd row vents. Turns cold drinks hot, and can cause phone to overheat on wireless charger. Cannot store emergency bars or other heat-sensitive materials in cubby, etc. Dealer has no idea how to repair.
    4. Cold air wafting through cabin, as though door seals not working or blend motors not working. Front footwells and lower door panel areas feel cold, like improper door seals. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    5. No air from dash vents when defrost, dash and floor all selected together.
    6. Front footwells blow cold air even when outside temps at -15˚F, intermittent, sometimes warmer, never hot. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    7. Defrost is totally ineffective (cold, weak) unless ‘max defrost’ is selected, which is a blast furnace with no other temp options than ‘highest temp’, so passengers have to roll windows down to endure defrosting/defogging, or sweat. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
  2. Rear hatch remote/foot release inop. Part ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts
  3. Rear hatch power opening closing sometimes inop (switch releases but lift gate does not power up and down, occassionally, and neither front nor rear open/close buttons have any effect. Vehicle running, not a battery issue. Speed Limit not displayed in HUD per manual and marketing materials. Dealer no has no ideas. Software updates have no effect.
  4. Forward Collision System randomly turns off by itself for no reason while driving (no snow/debris on front bumper).
  5. Radar and Lane Assist cruise sometimes unavailable (concurrent with Forward Collision Warning unavailable)
  6. Vehicle applies emergency brake and won’t move (has happened in garage, outdoors when parked/running, and once at a traffic light
  7. Driver Assist sometimes steers perfectly straight, other times weaves back and forth within the lane like a drunken toddler is at the wheel. Same pavement (ie 1500 mile road trip after buying the vehicle to get home). Get off to get gas, cycle ignition, get back on freeway and it drives perfectly straight. Same exact conditions (perfect), pavement/markings (near new), etc. System has a glitch.
  8. Air suspension sometimes does not perform entry/exit lowering, other times does.
  9. Air suspension sometimes drops in front, not rear, while parked (entry/exit lowering disabled intentionally in Uconnect).
  10. Automatic wipers sometimes accelerate to absolute spastic speed for no reason
  11. Automatic hi beams sometimes will not turn on hi beam mode, even on dark country road with no lights, signs or traffic.
  12. Passenger side front quarter panel or passenger front door not properly stamped, panels don’t line up properly.
  13. Keyless start sometimes fails to start (lights all go on as though starting, but car does not start).
  14. Headlights have ‘marbling’ inside the plastic and water spots inside. headlights ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts.
  15. Many rattles from McIntosh audio inside all door panels at low to moderate volumes. Sometimes passenger visor too. Open issue, noted but not repaired. Video shared with dealer/STAR tech. vibrations around lower door panels worse when door is open. Some vehicles assembled without proper clips that should have felt pads in the clip assembly. Not sure on my car, not sure it’s been checked. Produced video evidence to show STAR techs.
 

hcl

Well-known member
This is my current list of problems:

  1. Uconnect - Past issues Dec-Feb, partly resolved mid February with new Uconnect ECU/CPU:
    1. Screen goes black, can be ‘tricked’ into turning on by rotating position of headlight switch.
    2. Screen flashing constantly, cannot adjust anything within Uconnect before it ‘resets’.
    3. Key FOB not programming to driver profile or seat/mirror memory settings
    4. XM not available for three months. Came back on with new Uconnect CPU/ECU controller, but now no channels available due to no link to ostensibly unused ‘trial’ subscription.
    5. Wired Carplay only occasionally operable for first three months. Could only control via phone, usually would not connect.
    6. Wireless CarPlay worked first two days intermittently (dropped at random), then not at all.
    7. Bluetooth Audio not available
    8. Navigation completely unavailable “cannot load maps”
    9. Volume control inop; can turn volume knob and numbers go up and down, but no change in volume. Sometimes no sound, sometimes fixed volume, sometimes the unit would reduce the volume on its own (ie 30 to 20), and then do it again and again if you raised the volume.
    10. FM radio unavailable
    11. Internet connection to home wifi inop
    12. System won’t save driver profile settings
    13. Locks sometimes only open driver door, vs all doors
    14. Essentially anything controlled solely by Uconnect impossible to control due to constant system resetting (screen flashing every 5 seconds, booting you out of whatever you were doing).


  1. Uconnect AFTER replacement of CPU/ECU (not screen, just the processors that drive it)
    1. Wireless CarPlay still inop
    2. Wired CarPlay works on some phones, unreliable/unavailable on others (phones same generation iPhone 12, same iOS version)
    3. BT audio won’t connect
    4. Won’t connect to home wifi for OTA updates, app updates
    5. Won’t program key FOBs to driver profile and seat settings
    6. Cannot connect to wireless apps (ie to start car remotely) via iPhone


  1. HVAC
    1. Front center console vent to 2nd row console vents not assembled/disconnected from the factory (dealer reconnected)
    2. 2nd row footwell vent under passenger seat laying loose, disconnected (dealer reconnected)
    3. Front center console cubby is STILL 165˚F inside, cupholders 135˚F, phone charger 117˚F even after repairing ducts to center console 2nd row vents. Turns cold drinks hot, and can cause phone to overheat on wireless charger. Cannot store emergency bars or other heat-sensitive materials in cubby, etc. Dealer has no idea how to repair.
    4. Cold air wafting through cabin, as though door seals not working or blend motors not working. Front footwells and lower door panel areas feel cold, like improper door seals. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    5. No air from dash vents when defrost, dash and floor all selected together.
    6. Front footwells blow cold air even when outside temps at -15˚F, intermittent, sometimes warmer, never hot. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    7. Defrost is totally ineffective (cold, weak) unless ‘max defrost’ is selected, which is a blast furnace with no other temp options than ‘highest temp’, so passengers have to roll windows down to endure defrosting/defogging, or sweat. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
  2. Rear hatch remote/foot release inop. Part ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts
  3. Rear hatch power opening closing sometimes inop (switch releases but lift gate does not power up and down, occassionally, and neither front nor rear open/close buttons have any effect. Vehicle running, not a battery issue. Speed Limit not displayed in HUD per manual and marketing materials. Dealer no has no ideas. Software updates have no effect.
  4. Forward Collision System randomly turns off by itself for no reason while driving (no snow/debris on front bumper).
  5. Radar and Lane Assist cruise sometimes unavailable (concurrent with Forward Collision Warning unavailable)
  6. Vehicle applies emergency brake and won’t move (has happened in garage, outdoors when parked/running, and once at a traffic light
  7. Driver Assist sometimes steers perfectly straight, other times weaves back and forth within the lane like a drunken toddler is at the wheel. Same pavement (ie 1500 mile road trip after buying the vehicle to get home). Get off to get gas, cycle ignition, get back on freeway and it drives perfectly straight. Same exact conditions (perfect), pavement/markings (near new), etc. System has a glitch.
  8. Air suspension sometimes does not perform entry/exit lowering, other times does.
  9. Air suspension sometimes drops in front, not rear, while parked (entry/exit lowering disabled intentionally in Uconnect).
  10. Automatic wipers sometimes accelerate to absolute spastic speed for no reason
  11. Automatic hi beams sometimes will not turn on hi beam mode, even on dark country road with no lights, signs or traffic.
  12. Passenger side front quarter panel or passenger front door not properly stamped, panels don’t line up properly.
  13. Keyless start sometimes fails to start (lights all go on as though starting, but car does not start).
  14. Headlights have ‘marbling’ inside the plastic and water spots inside. headlights ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts.
  15. Many rattles from McIntosh audio inside all door panels at low to moderate volumes. Sometimes passenger visor too. Open issue, noted but not repaired. Video shared with dealer/STAR tech. vibrations around lower door panels worse when door is open. Some vehicles assembled without proper clips that should have felt pads in the clip assembly. Not sure on my car, not sure it’s been checked. Produced video evidence to show STAR techs.
I think it's handy to have this kind of consolidated list. I see you already added these to that thread. (I agree, it would be cleaner if we could just edit a running list, but it seems we have to make each update a new post).
 

Sarge

Well-known member
There should be a 'sticky' with all the known issues, what to look for, and how to resolve them. It would help dealers as well as owners. Not sure why that's not possible, except that the site owner might be concerned about lost ad revenue from Jeep or something. It would otherwise drive traffic, I would think, as owners search for answers to all of these things.
 

Sarge

Well-known member
FWIW, the best thing I've found is a site called 'rocketreach.co'. It uses an API to LinkedIn and Facebook to assemble a database with a lot of flexible search parameters, and provides emails and phone numbers. I've even added my alma mater to some searches in blind hopes a fellow alum might be willing to point me in the right direction.

@JeepCares actually DELETED the conversation they initiated with me last night, after telling me 'they're sorry and want to help'. When I responded with the above list of issues and told them I was looking for help with anyone at corporate who might listen, they literally ran and hid. :oops:

Unbelievable.

I sent them another PM earlier today, and...

 
Last edited:

RiseAgainst

Well-known member
This is my current list of problems:

  1. Uconnect - Past issues Dec-Feb, partly resolved mid February with new Uconnect ECU/CPU:
    1. Screen goes black, can be ‘tricked’ into turning on by rotating position of headlight switch.
    2. Screen flashing constantly, cannot adjust anything within Uconnect before it ‘resets’.
    3. Key FOB not programming to driver profile or seat/mirror memory settings
    4. XM not available for three months. Came back on with new Uconnect CPU/ECU controller, but now no channels available due to no link to ostensibly unused ‘trial’ subscription.
    5. Wired Carplay only occasionally operable for first three months. Could only control via phone, usually would not connect.
    6. Wireless CarPlay worked first two days intermittently (dropped at random), then not at all.
    7. Bluetooth Audio not available
    8. Navigation completely unavailable “cannot load maps”
    9. Volume control inop; can turn volume knob and numbers go up and down, but no change in volume. Sometimes no sound, sometimes fixed volume, sometimes the unit would reduce the volume on its own (ie 30 to 20), and then do it again and again if you raised the volume.
    10. FM radio unavailable
    11. Internet connection to home wifi inop
    12. System won’t save driver profile settings
    13. Locks sometimes only open driver door, vs all doors
    14. Essentially anything controlled solely by Uconnect impossible to control due to constant system resetting (screen flashing every 5 seconds, booting you out of whatever you were doing).


  1. Uconnect AFTER replacement of CPU/ECU (not screen, just the processors that drive it)
    1. Wireless CarPlay still inop
    2. Wired CarPlay works on some phones, unreliable/unavailable on others (phones same generation iPhone 12, same iOS version)
    3. BT audio won’t connect
    4. Won’t connect to home wifi for OTA updates, app updates
    5. Won’t program key FOBs to driver profile and seat settings
    6. Cannot connect to wireless apps (ie to start car remotely) via iPhone


  1. HVAC
    1. Front center console vent to 2nd row console vents not assembled/disconnected from the factory (dealer reconnected)
    2. 2nd row footwell vent under passenger seat laying loose, disconnected (dealer reconnected)
    3. Front center console cubby is STILL 165˚F inside, cupholders 135˚F, phone charger 117˚F even after repairing ducts to center console 2nd row vents. Turns cold drinks hot, and can cause phone to overheat on wireless charger. Cannot store emergency bars or other heat-sensitive materials in cubby, etc. Dealer has no idea how to repair.
    4. Cold air wafting through cabin, as though door seals not working or blend motors not working. Front footwells and lower door panel areas feel cold, like improper door seals. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    5. No air from dash vents when defrost, dash and floor all selected together.
    6. Front footwells blow cold air even when outside temps at -15˚F, intermittent, sometimes warmer, never hot. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    7. Defrost is totally ineffective (cold, weak) unless ‘max defrost’ is selected, which is a blast furnace with no other temp options than ‘highest temp’, so passengers have to roll windows down to endure defrosting/defogging, or sweat. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
  2. Rear hatch remote/foot release inop. Part ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts
  3. Rear hatch power opening closing sometimes inop (switch releases but lift gate does not power up and down, occassionally, and neither front nor rear open/close buttons have any effect. Vehicle running, not a battery issue. Speed Limit not displayed in HUD per manual and marketing materials. Dealer no has no ideas. Software updates have no effect.
  4. Forward Collision System randomly turns off by itself for no reason while driving (no snow/debris on front bumper).
  5. Radar and Lane Assist cruise sometimes unavailable (concurrent with Forward Collision Warning unavailable)
  6. Vehicle applies emergency brake and won’t move (has happened in garage, outdoors when parked/running, and once at a traffic light
  7. Driver Assist sometimes steers perfectly straight, other times weaves back and forth within the lane like a drunken toddler is at the wheel. Same pavement (ie 1500 mile road trip after buying the vehicle to get home). Get off to get gas, cycle ignition, get back on freeway and it drives perfectly straight. Same exact conditions (perfect), pavement/markings (near new), etc. System has a glitch.
  8. Air suspension sometimes does not perform entry/exit lowering, other times does.
  9. Air suspension sometimes drops in front, not rear, while parked (entry/exit lowering disabled intentionally in Uconnect).
  10. Automatic wipers sometimes accelerate to absolute spastic speed for no reason
  11. Automatic hi beams sometimes will not turn on hi beam mode, even on dark country road with no lights, signs or traffic.
  12. Passenger side front quarter panel or passenger front door not properly stamped, panels don’t line up properly.
  13. Keyless start sometimes fails to start (lights all go on as though starting, but car does not start).
  14. Headlights have ‘marbling’ inside the plastic and water spots inside. headlights ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts.
  15. Many rattles from McIntosh audio inside all door panels at low to moderate volumes. Sometimes passenger visor too. Open issue, noted but not repaired. Video shared with dealer/STAR tech. vibrations around lower door panels worse when door is open. Some vehicles assembled without proper clips that should have felt pads in the clip assembly. Not sure on my car, not sure it’s been checked. Produced video evidence to show STAR techs.
If only you thought to reach out to @JeepCares all of these issues would have been resolved long ago.
 

BigRig_Randy

Active member
This is my current list of problems:

  1. Uconnect - Past issues Dec-Feb, partly resolved mid February with new Uconnect ECU/CPU:
    1. Screen goes black, can be ‘tricked’ into turning on by rotating position of headlight switch.
    2. Screen flashing constantly, cannot adjust anything within Uconnect before it ‘resets’.
    3. Key FOB not programming to driver profile or seat/mirror memory settings
    4. XM not available for three months. Came back on with new Uconnect CPU/ECU controller, but now no channels available due to no link to ostensibly unused ‘trial’ subscription.
    5. Wired Carplay only occasionally operable for first three months. Could only control via phone, usually would not connect.
    6. Wireless CarPlay worked first two days intermittently (dropped at random), then not at all.
    7. Bluetooth Audio not available
    8. Navigation completely unavailable “cannot load maps”
    9. Volume control inop; can turn volume knob and numbers go up and down, but no change in volume. Sometimes no sound, sometimes fixed volume, sometimes the unit would reduce the volume on its own (ie 30 to 20), and then do it again and again if you raised the volume.
    10. FM radio unavailable
    11. Internet connection to home wifi inop
    12. System won’t save driver profile settings
    13. Locks sometimes only open driver door, vs all doors
    14. Essentially anything controlled solely by Uconnect impossible to control due to constant system resetting (screen flashing every 5 seconds, booting you out of whatever you were doing).


  1. Uconnect AFTER replacement of CPU/ECU (not screen, just the processors that drive it)
    1. Wireless CarPlay still inop
    2. Wired CarPlay works on some phones, unreliable/unavailable on others (phones same generation iPhone 12, same iOS version)
    3. BT audio won’t connect
    4. Won’t connect to home wifi for OTA updates, app updates
    5. Won’t program key FOBs to driver profile and seat settings
    6. Cannot connect to wireless apps (ie to start car remotely) via iPhone


  1. HVAC
    1. Front center console vent to 2nd row console vents not assembled/disconnected from the factory (dealer reconnected)
    2. 2nd row footwell vent under passenger seat laying loose, disconnected (dealer reconnected)
    3. Front center console cubby is STILL 165˚F inside, cupholders 135˚F, phone charger 117˚F even after repairing ducts to center console 2nd row vents. Turns cold drinks hot, and can cause phone to overheat on wireless charger. Cannot store emergency bars or other heat-sensitive materials in cubby, etc. Dealer has no idea how to repair.
    4. Cold air wafting through cabin, as though door seals not working or blend motors not working. Front footwells and lower door panel areas feel cold, like improper door seals. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    5. No air from dash vents when defrost, dash and floor all selected together.
    6. Front footwells blow cold air even when outside temps at -15˚F, intermittent, sometimes warmer, never hot. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    7. Defrost is totally ineffective (cold, weak) unless ‘max defrost’ is selected, which is a blast furnace with no other temp options than ‘highest temp’, so passengers have to roll windows down to endure defrosting/defogging, or sweat. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
  2. Rear hatch remote/foot release inop. Part ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts
  3. Rear hatch power opening closing sometimes inop (switch releases but lift gate does not power up and down, occassionally, and neither front nor rear open/close buttons have any effect. Vehicle running, not a battery issue. Speed Limit not displayed in HUD per manual and marketing materials. Dealer no has no ideas. Software updates have no effect.
  4. Forward Collision System randomly turns off by itself for no reason while driving (no snow/debris on front bumper).
  5. Radar and Lane Assist cruise sometimes unavailable (concurrent with Forward Collision Warning unavailable)
  6. Vehicle applies emergency brake and won’t move (has happened in garage, outdoors when parked/running, and once at a traffic light
  7. Driver Assist sometimes steers perfectly straight, other times weaves back and forth within the lane like a drunken toddler is at the wheel. Same pavement (ie 1500 mile road trip after buying the vehicle to get home). Get off to get gas, cycle ignition, get back on freeway and it drives perfectly straight. Same exact conditions (perfect), pavement/markings (near new), etc. System has a glitch.
  8. Air suspension sometimes does not perform entry/exit lowering, other times does.
  9. Air suspension sometimes drops in front, not rear, while parked (entry/exit lowering disabled intentionally in Uconnect).
  10. Automatic wipers sometimes accelerate to absolute spastic speed for no reason
  11. Automatic hi beams sometimes will not turn on hi beam mode, even on dark country road with no lights, signs or traffic.
  12. Passenger side front quarter panel or passenger front door not properly stamped, panels don’t line up properly.
  13. Keyless start sometimes fails to start (lights all go on as though starting, but car does not start).
  14. Headlights have ‘marbling’ inside the plastic and water spots inside. headlights ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts.
  15. Many rattles from McIntosh audio inside all door panels at low to moderate volumes. Sometimes passenger visor too. Open issue, noted but not repaired. Video shared with dealer/STAR tech. vibrations around lower door panels worse when door is open. Some vehicles assembled without proper clips that should have felt pads in the clip assembly. Not sure on my car, not sure it’s been checked. Produced video evidence to show STAR techs.
Damn dude, they must have built your GCL on a Friday. I feel bad for what you have been going through
 

rkpearson3

Active member
This is my current list of problems:

  1. Uconnect - Past issues Dec-Feb, partly resolved mid February with new Uconnect ECU/CPU:
    1. Screen goes black, can be ‘tricked’ into turning on by rotating position of headlight switch.
    2. Screen flashing constantly, cannot adjust anything within Uconnect before it ‘resets’.
    3. Key FOB not programming to driver profile or seat/mirror memory settings
    4. XM not available for three months. Came back on with new Uconnect CPU/ECU controller, but now no channels available due to no link to ostensibly unused ‘trial’ subscription.
    5. Wired Carplay only occasionally operable for first three months. Could only control via phone, usually would not connect.
    6. Wireless CarPlay worked first two days intermittently (dropped at random), then not at all.
    7. Bluetooth Audio not available
    8. Navigation completely unavailable “cannot load maps”
    9. Volume control inop; can turn volume knob and numbers go up and down, but no change in volume. Sometimes no sound, sometimes fixed volume, sometimes the unit would reduce the volume on its own (ie 30 to 20), and then do it again and again if you raised the volume.
    10. FM radio unavailable
    11. Internet connection to home wifi inop
    12. System won’t save driver profile settings
    13. Locks sometimes only open driver door, vs all doors
    14. Essentially anything controlled solely by Uconnect impossible to control due to constant system resetting (screen flashing every 5 seconds, booting you out of whatever you were doing).


  1. Uconnect AFTER replacement of CPU/ECU (not screen, just the processors that drive it)
    1. Wireless CarPlay still inop
    2. Wired CarPlay works on some phones, unreliable/unavailable on others (phones same generation iPhone 12, same iOS version)
    3. BT audio won’t connect
    4. Won’t connect to home wifi for OTA updates, app updates
    5. Won’t program key FOBs to driver profile and seat settings
    6. Cannot connect to wireless apps (ie to start car remotely) via iPhone


  1. HVAC
    1. Front center console vent to 2nd row console vents not assembled/disconnected from the factory (dealer reconnected)
    2. 2nd row footwell vent under passenger seat laying loose, disconnected (dealer reconnected)
    3. Front center console cubby is STILL 165˚F inside, cupholders 135˚F, phone charger 117˚F even after repairing ducts to center console 2nd row vents. Turns cold drinks hot, and can cause phone to overheat on wireless charger. Cannot store emergency bars or other heat-sensitive materials in cubby, etc. Dealer has no idea how to repair.
    4. Cold air wafting through cabin, as though door seals not working or blend motors not working. Front footwells and lower door panel areas feel cold, like improper door seals. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    5. No air from dash vents when defrost, dash and floor all selected together.
    6. Front footwells blow cold air even when outside temps at -15˚F, intermittent, sometimes warmer, never hot. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
    7. Defrost is totally ineffective (cold, weak) unless ‘max defrost’ is selected, which is a blast furnace with no other temp options than ‘highest temp’, so passengers have to roll windows down to endure defrosting/defogging, or sweat. Open issue, noted but not repaired.
  2. Rear hatch remote/foot release inop. Part ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts
  3. Rear hatch power opening closing sometimes inop (switch releases but lift gate does not power up and down, occassionally, and neither front nor rear open/close buttons have any effect. Vehicle running, not a battery issue. Speed Limit not displayed in HUD per manual and marketing materials. Dealer no has no ideas. Software updates have no effect.
  4. Forward Collision System randomly turns off by itself for no reason while driving (no snow/debris on front bumper).
  5. Radar and Lane Assist cruise sometimes unavailable (concurrent with Forward Collision Warning unavailable)
  6. Vehicle applies emergency brake and won’t move (has happened in garage, outdoors when parked/running, and once at a traffic light
  7. Driver Assist sometimes steers perfectly straight, other times weaves back and forth within the lane like a drunken toddler is at the wheel. Same pavement (ie 1500 mile road trip after buying the vehicle to get home). Get off to get gas, cycle ignition, get back on freeway and it drives perfectly straight. Same exact conditions (perfect), pavement/markings (near new), etc. System has a glitch.
  8. Air suspension sometimes does not perform entry/exit lowering, other times does.
  9. Air suspension sometimes drops in front, not rear, while parked (entry/exit lowering disabled intentionally in Uconnect).
  10. Automatic wipers sometimes accelerate to absolute spastic speed for no reason
  11. Automatic hi beams sometimes will not turn on hi beam mode, even on dark country road with no lights, signs or traffic.
  12. Passenger side front quarter panel or passenger front door not properly stamped, panels don’t line up properly.
  13. Keyless start sometimes fails to start (lights all go on as though starting, but car does not start).
  14. Headlights have ‘marbling’ inside the plastic and water spots inside. headlights ordered three months ago, no ETA for parts.
  15. Many rattles from McIntosh audio inside all door panels at low to moderate volumes. Sometimes passenger visor too. Open issue, noted but not repaired. Video shared with dealer/STAR tech. vibrations around lower door panels worse when door is open. Some vehicles assembled without proper clips that should have felt pads in the clip assembly. Not sure on my car, not sure it’s been checked. Produced video evidence to show STAR techs.
Sorry you have had so many issues. I just sold my ‘22 GC Summit Reserve back to the dealership today. Only had it 49 days and no real
Issues (except the labor keep assist stopped working twice). It was super nice and had a lot of features, but I just didn’t love driving it. It will be listed soon if you want it in VA. I posted pics when I got it.
 

Sarge

Well-known member
Thanks for the offer. I'm working on a 'dealer assist' buyback (no lemon law invoked) with my local Jackson Hole dealer (great people); If Jeep will play ball in providing price concessions and 'no content deletions' with a '22 replacement, that's what I'll do.

While this isn't quite as good on the road as a BMW X7, the only other vehicle that offers the same on and off road capabilities is Range Rover. While I've always loved Jeeps (this is my second GC, and have had three Wranglers), the fact that the Range Rover dealer is 300 miles away (a 1200 mile drive for diagnosis and subsequent repair, or 600 miles and a plane ride), while my very good Jeep dealer is 3 miles away. It makes that decision easy.

I'm hoping I might be able to snag an early production I6TT hybrid, which is being announced at NYAS in April, but we'll see how long I'd have to wait. Turbo motors don't lose power at elevation (I drive between 6k ft and 10k ft), where NA motors lose 20% or more at this elevation, so, short of a manual transmission, it's the ideal family tow, snow, and off road rig.

Good luck with whatever you buy next!
 

hcl

Well-known member
FWIW, the best thing I've found is a site called 'rocketreach.co'. It uses an API to LinkedIn and Facebook to assemble a database with a lot of flexible search parameters, and provides emails and phone numbers. I've even added my alma mater to some searches in blind hopes a fellow alum might be willing to point me in the right direction.

@JeepCares actually DELETED the conversation they initiated with me last night, after telling me 'they're sorry and want to help'. When I responded with the above list of issues and told them I was looking for help with anyone at corporate who might listen, they literally ran and hid. :oops:

Unbelievable.

I sent them another PM earlier today, and...

That's a pretty amazing and futile effort to conceal their lack of support. They must have a league of children operating that. At least you're keeping your sense of humor during this.
 

hcl

Well-known member
Sorry you have had so many issues. I just sold my ‘22 GC Summit Reserve back to the dealership today. Only had it 49 days and no real
Issues (except the labor keep assist stopped working twice). It was super nice and had a lot of features, but I just didn’t love driving it. It will be listed soon if you want it in VA. I posted pics when I got it.
Just out of curiosity, why did you sell it back so soon?
 

Sarge

Well-known member
As a follow up to this thread, a couple of things have happened.

(1) Several months ago, I was able to get a response from an executive in charge of the WL platform, who referred me to their Customer Cares Executive Referral Manager (ERM). Nobody gets to talk to him unless an executive refers the person to him, but he has a 'magic wand' with regard to handling these situations. I've been working with him on doing a trade assist replacement through my dealer. That person is the executive 'fixer' who helps people who meet a presumably high bar with regard to their situations and level of problems. I used a site called rocketreach.co, which apparently has a backend API to all of LinkedIn and Facebook, etc, with emails, phone numbers, and every other point of data on those sites (education, career, job title, etc) to find top executives who I might be able to get some help from, which is how I got to the ERM.

(2) Around the same time, I had also gotten fed up with the protracted timeline of repairs and parts availability via the regular 'Customer Care' department, and asked to be put in touch with the buyback department to discuss options. A couple of months went by with no further communication on that, and I was now working with the ERM above.

One day, the ERM said, to his surprise, my car had been approved for a buyback. I think he thought I was intentionally continuing to run two channels at once (like a vote of no confidence in him, it may have seemed) but I had no idea I was even being considered for a buyback b/c I'd never spoken to or so much as received an email from anyone in the "Buyback Dept".

So, now, I have an approved buyback, and the ERM has told me to see what they offer from the Buyback Dept (BD offer is full retail buyback plus tax/reg/etc, plus $1k for PPF, and no diminished value for miles driven. The last two are an exception not generally offered, but I have no loan and no lawyer, so I'm a 'cheap' buyback in that regard. Then we see whether to do a trade assist via the ERM, or a hybrid situation where the BD takes it back, and the ERM arranges the deal on the replacement.

As with all huge multinational corporations, they all have their respective budgets, so it could go either way. Bottom line, my buyback is approved, but in my state (WY), the lemon law only provides for straight buybacks (not replacements) so the replacement side of the deal requires either me working with the ERM (no brainer) or me just starting from scratch with the dealer on a replacement as a standard 'new order'.

As I really want Midnight Sky and the new I6TT motor, I've been kind of happy to see this drag on vs wanting it all done right away. I was told by the ERM Midnight Sky was scheduled to start production 4/25, but that doesn't seem to have happened. I also really, really want the new turbo 6 (my Hemi only makes 290hp at my elevation, less over mountain passes, while only averaging 15mpg over the last 7k miles). As a car guy who uses this for road trips and towing, I'd LOVE to have an extra 135+hp and even more torque along with better fuel economy, but I haven't gotten any indication from the ERM re production of that being anywhere near, and they're certainly not going to tell *me* about something like that before it's announced.

I'd love a loaded Midnight Sky Grand Wagoneer with the I6, but I doubt anyone at Stellantis loves me enough to sufficiently discount on one of those for me to justify it (I could buy one, but no way am I spending that much money on any SUV).

I'll be in Africa for all of July, so I don't really need this to happen until August, and I'll be gone another few weeks at the end of August into September, so if I had to wait until then to get the I6, I would. I'm hoping to know more this week, we'll see. In the mean time I've been having new problems (transmission clunk shifting for passing manuevers/towing, cruise sometimes doesn't slow down when adjusted (ie keeps going 55 when adjusted to 45, etc etc etc), but so far the car remains drivable, if extremely annoying (terrible door panel vibrations from the stereo, CarPlay randomly works or doesn't, auto high beams don't work, etc etc etc).

Overall, if everything worked, it's still the best vehicle for my use case. The I6 would make it vastly more appealing, too.
 
Last edited:

hcl

Well-known member
As a follow up to this thread, a couple of things have happened.

(1) Several months ago, I was able to get a response from an executive in charge of the WL platform, who referred me to their Customer Cares Executive Referral Manager (ERM). Nobody gets to talk to him unless an executive refers the person to him, but he has a 'magic wand' with regard to handling these situations. I've been working with him on doing a trade assist replacement through my dealer. That person is the executive 'fixer' who helps people who meet a presumably high bar with regard to their situations and level of problems. I used a site called rocketreach.co, which apparently has a backend API to all of LinkedIn and Facebook, etc, with emails, phone numbers, and every other point of data on those sites (education, career, job title, etc) to find top executives who I might be able to get some help from, which is how I got to the ERM.

(2) Around the same time, I had also gotten fed up with the protracted timeline of repairs and parts availability via the regular 'Customer Care' department, and asked to be put in touch with the buyback department to discuss options. A couple of months went by with no further communication on that, and I was now working with the ERM above.

One day, the ERM said, to his surprise, my car had been approved for a buyback. I think he thought I was intentionally continuing to run two channels at once (like a vote of no confidence in him, it may have seemed) but I had no idea I was even being considered for a buyback b/c I'd never spoken to or so much as received an email from anyone in the "Buyback Dept".

So, now, I have an approved buyback, and the ERM has told me to see what they offer from the Buyback Dept (BD offer is full retail buyback plus tax/reg/etc, plus $1k for PPF, and no diminished value for miles driven. The last two are an exception not generally offered, but I have no loan and no lawyer, so I'm a 'cheap' buyback in that regard. Then we see whether to do a trade assist via the ERM, or a hybrid situation where the BD takes it back, and the ERM arranges the deal on the replacement.

As with all huge multinational corporations, they all have their respective budgets, so it could go either way. Bottom line, my buyback is approved, but in my state (WY), the lemon law only provides for straight buybacks (not replacements) so the replacement side of the deal requires either me working with the ERM (no brainer) or me just starting from scratch with the dealer on a replacement as a standard 'new order'.

As I really want Midnight Sky and the new I6TT motor, I've been kind of happy to see this drag on vs wanting it all done right away. I was told by the ERM Midnight Sky was scheduled to start production 4/25, but that doesn't seem to have happened. I also really, really want the new turbo 6 (my Hemi only makes 290hp at my elevation, less over mountain passes, while only averaging 15mpg over the last 7k miles). As a car guy who uses this for road trips and towing, I'd LOVE to have an extra 135+hp and even more torque along with better fuel economy, but I haven't gotten any indication from the ERM re production of that being anywhere near, and they're certainly not going to tell *me* about something like that before it's announced.

I'd love a loaded Midnight Sky Grand Wagoneer with the I6, but I doubt anyone at Stellantis loves me enough to sufficiently discount on one of those for me to justify it (I could buy one, but no way am I spending that much money on any SUV).

I'll be in Africa for all of July, so I don't really need this to happen until August, and I'll be gone another few weeks at the end of August into September, so if I had to wait until then to get the I6, I would. I'm hoping to know more this week, we'll see. In the mean time I've been having new problems (transmission clunk shifting for passing manuevers/towing, cruise sometimes doesn't slow down when adjusted (ie keeps going 55 when adjusted to 45, etc etc etc), but so far the car remains drivable, if extremely annoying (terrible door panel vibrations from the stereo, CarPlay randomly works or doesn't, auto high beams don't work, etc etc etc).

Overall, if everything worked, it's still the best vehicle for my use case. The I6 would make it vastly more appealing, too.
So it sounds like, though your WL75 is continuing to fail in different ways, you're getting cooperation from Jeep for a buyback of what has been a, hopefully isolated, lemon. Then, you're in no hurry since you'd like to wait for the I6TT, (which so far, I only see offered, in the future, on the Wagoneer, not the GC), and the midnight blue color, (which is also what I'd like). Please post if you hear definitive dates for either of those going into full production on the GC.
 

Sarge

Well-known member
The I6TT will probably be too far off for me as a replacement (2024 MY most likely).but Jeep has announced that it will definitely come to pretty much every Hemi-equipped car (including the GC). You can already order a Grand Wagoneer with the motor.

I've been not rushing anyone on the Stellantis side b/c while they approved the buyback, they also told me Midnight Sky was coming online 4/25, it still hasn't happened... but I'm hoping its close. Now it's just shenanigans between my dealer trying to figure out how to use my employee pricing code so I can work out the deal on the replacement. It's a bit convoluted in part because while Jeep wants me in another Jeep, the WY lemon law doesn't allow for straight replacements, just money back. So the replacement deal is a separate thing, but they're not just sending me to the dealer, partly b/c they've raised the prices a lot from '21 but Stellantis says they want to make things right (with the price).

Lemon buybacks were a pretty slow process in my past experiences in CA decades ago, and still are today apparently. Covid makes everything worse, too.
 
Last edited:
Top